Trip to Archaeological Site Wingfield Estate and Romney Manor in St Kitts

On a trip to the Caribbean in June, my fiancé and I had the pleasure to visit St. Lucia, St. Kitts, St. Johns, St. Martin, Puerto Rico, Barbados, and St. Thomas. Any time I plan a tour,  it seems I always sneak in something historical, hence my visit to Brimstone Fortress in St. Kitts.  I'm just glad my other half like these types of archaeological wonders as much as I do. 

We drove up to the site and stopped first at the Wingfield Estate where the ruins of the sugar mill were located.  I'm not sure what my fascination is with the kettles that line each plantation I visit. It must just be the smell of preservation. I've collected a plethora of information from Dunlawton Planation and Cruger and Depeyster, and now, I've moved on to the sugar works at the Wingfield Estate. 

Wingfield Estate

We were first taken on a tour of the firing tunnel, which was constructed of volcanic stone and imported brick. The tunnel was built to provide access to the boiling coppers. Dried sugar cane was stacked in the tunnel, which was then added to the main fire. Heat from the firebox heated the boiling wall and then the water in the steam boiler. It's been said that a network of tunnels also connect to other parts of the sugar works on the site. 

Romney Manor 

Romney Manor originally dates from the 17th century. The Europeans took over the area  following the Carib Indian Massacres. According to records, King Tegreman, who was the Carib Indian leader, built his settlement there. Following his demise, Sam Jefferson, one of the original settlers, claimed the site as his own. Sam Jefferson was the great, great, great grandfather of Thomas Jefferson, who was the 3rd president of the United States of America.

Around the mid 17th century, San Jefferson sold part of the property to the Earl of Romney. He named it Romney Manor. The house was named Romney Manor, and the entire estate took on the name Romney's. Romney's estate changed hands to each succeeding Earl of Romney until the late 19th century.  

As we made our way around the grounds, we stopped at the bell tower. I'm not sure what it was about this particular place on the site, but it reminded me of some odd scene from a movie. Not to sound cliche, but it was magical, and it seemed there was more of a story here. However, after I learned what purpose this bell tower saved, it was much less grand than once thought. 

The bell tower was used to control the slaves. The sound of the bell was heard throughout the day, and would alert the slaves to begin their day of work, end their day in the fields and return, and time to sleep. Evidently, bell towers, because of their symbolism, were destroyed at the time of emancipation, however the Early of Romney was known as a more benevolent owner. Romney immediately released his slaves at the time of emancipation. Other owners prolonged their ownership for a further four years. As a result, the bell tower at Romney Manor is the only perfectly preserved bell tower still standing in St. Kitts.

We ended the day by walking through the garden path, and examining the many species of flora and fauna throughout the property.  

Exploring the Brimstone Fortress in St. Kitts

On a recent cruise to the Virgin Islands,  we visited St. Kitts, and took a tour of the island with Roysten tours. We snorkeled along the breathtaking barrier reef in two different secluded locations, and I had the chance to use my waterproof IPhone case for the first time. By the way, it worked pretty well before I went underwater, but once submerged, the phone didn't work at all. Hmm, perhaps not waterproof after all, or, maybe I misread the box which didn't say anything about taking it 6 ft down to take pictures of a school of tiger barbs. I digress…this is supposed to be about Brimstone Fortress. I'm getting to it.

One of our last stops on our St. Kitts tour was Brimstone Fortress. If you know me at all, you know I love fortifications. From the moment I placed my hand on the coquina walls at the Castillo de San Marcos, and just recently walked the streets of Old San Juan, nestled within its own massive fortification, I was fervently obsessed with the look and structure of these man made marvels. 

Brimstone was nothing short of a wondrous architectural feat. The Brimstone Fortress was constructed between the 1690s and 1790s, and remains of singular importance due to the complete military community that resided there during the 18th century.



I first ventured along the coast, and slowly stepped down into the infantry officer's quarters. This section of the fort was constructed in the late 18th century, around 1791. The famous arches allow for splendid views of the Caribbean.

It was one of my favorite buildings. I got lost, not physically, in the panoramic vistas. This area was reserved for regimental officers, who once resided in the masonry basements, once topped with timber buildings.

Here it was. As I made my way to the steps of Fort George Citadel, I had to take a moment to reflect. The fortress is virtually a man-made out growth of the natural hill. The steps to the top reminded me of the Great Wall of China, however the steps, albeit they were very far apart, and looked seemingly easy to navigate, were quite the contrary. 

I thought, hey, I've been swimming and building muscles, this will be a breeze. Phew, by the time I made it half way up, my heart started beating rapidly, and I had to take a breather. The slope of the steps and the elevation presented quite a challenge, but I pressed on. 

By the time I made it to the top, I had to take five minutes to control my breathing. Funny thing was, well, maybe not too funny, there were people in really great shape climbing this staircase, and they too were huffing and puffing the entire way up, and sharing water at the top. Keep in mind, the citadel is nearly 800 feet high, and one of the earliest surviving examples of a new style of fortification known as the 'polygonal system'. However, I wasn't thinking about the shape, I was thinking, "Man, I'm glad I made it to the top without falling over".

View from the Top of the Citadel: Brimstone Fortress

The walls of the structures are predominantly of stone, laboriously and skillfully fashioned from the hard volcanic rock of which the hill is composed. The mortar to cement the stones was produced on site from the limestone which covers much of the middle and lower slopes. 







By the time I finally caught my breath, I got a glimpse of the mountains, the historical township of Sandy Point, and neighbouring Dutch, English and French islands across the Caribbean Sea. It was spectacular, and mainly because I made it to the top without passing out, and actually got to enjoy it. I was up there nearly 20 minutes before my fiancé appeared. Either he got lost, or he took a breather like I did on the step. Either way, it was well worth the effort.

As educators, historians, archaeologists, and travelers, why is it that we find such joy in touching the oldest of structures? Perhaps we expect to feel the history, or some type of connection to the people that once roamed the grounds of these structures. For me, it really does represent living history. Today, most structures are built, not to last, but for purpose. Just look at the arches. Why was it necessary to create so many? Did the infantry really need that many entrances into the courtyard? Why does the design remind me of Ancient Greece? Ancient Rome?

It seems that all people borrowed from those before them, whether it was the method or mode of construction, or the theory behind the design. Either way, it's rewarding to experience a transfer of knowledge from one century to the next. Thousands of years have passed, and yet these structures all share similar voices. That's one of the things I really love about archaeology, and I love that Brimstone Fortress reminded me of that.