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Monday, September 5, 2011

Islands at the Edge of the World – the Canaries Before the Conquest AD


Monday Ground Up Special Edition By Wozniacki


September 4, 2011--Say 'Canary Islands', and most Europeans will have 'all-year-round holiday destination' leap into their minds. For many Americans, the scary phrase 'mega-tsunami' may be conjured up – courtesy of worries that the island's unstable volcanic slopes will one day collapse. But for all their modern-day familiarity as holiday-destinations – or harbingers of doom – when looked at historically, the Canary Islands were always an exotic outpost right on the edge of the map.

Up until 500 years ago, cartographers would draw a line just west of these tiny volcanic fragments, and place on it the label 'here be monsters' – capturing the unknown essence of the oceans stretching westwards off of the map. But although right at the geographic limits of the Old World, for thousands of years, the Canary Islands have been anything but short of history. Before the Spanish planted Castile's flag – as part of their Conquest of the islands in the 15th century – Berbers, Romans, Arabs and even Greeks, may have come to explore these fascinating outposts.

The inhabitants the Spanish found living on the islands when they arrived in 1402, were described as from a different, more primal era. Labeled 'Guanches', the debate has raged ever since their origins. Some had them down as Phoenicians sailors and traders, others as prisoners abandoned by King Juba II of Numidia, back in 100 years BC. But DNA evidence has now conclusively pointed to the original Guanches as being of Berber-descent – an ancient people who lived in the North African mountains.


© R. Liebau (Reconstruction of a Guanche village Tenerife).


The first archaeological evidence left by the Guanches suggests that they arrived sometime before 1000 BC. They bought with them domesticated animals, such as sheep, goats and dogs, as well as grain crops from North Africa – suggesting that theirs was a settlement with a purpose. What is strange is that, for all their sea-faring skills in having to reach the islands – strong currents ensure it is very difficult to make landfall on the Canaries from North Africa. They had lost all ability to sail, even between islands, by the time the Spanish arrived on the scene.

But the ancient world certainly could, and did, reach them. Many think that the home of the nymphs who dwelt in the Garden of the Hesperides, from Greek legend, could have been on these very islands. The first reference in history, though, comes from the Romans. The famous Roman writer, Pliny the Younger, described them as being 'discovered' by the Juba II, King of Numidia, in the first century BC. He had sent an expedition from the dye-making port of Mogador in western Morocco, to explore the islands – perhaps drawn by the peak of Mount Teidu, which is clearly visible from the African coast.
His visit also gave rise to the name of the islands – Islas Canarias. By Pliny's account, Juba II found that the island peoples made use of particularly fierce dogs. So he called them the Islands of the Dogs, canis being the Latin for dog. Archaeologists have since found evidence that the Romans themselves visited on several occasions. Off of the coast of Lanzarote, Roman amphorae, for carrying wine and oils, were found at the site of a shipwreck. And excavations on the same island have found Roman pottery fragments, pieces of glass and metals – all dating to between the 1st and 4th Centuries AD. The Arabs too came to trade with the Guanches.

It appears that these earlier visitors left the peoples of the Canary Islands to themselves – unlike the Spaniards who arrived later. But what was life like for these original peoples? Archaeologists reckon that they lived quite simple lives, from a material point of view at least. Goat, sheep and pigs were all kept, they grew crops on small plots, and lived mostly in caves, or small round stone-huts. But spiritually they had a quite a sophisticated religious world, with a pantheon of deities, spirits and demons. Many gods were acknowledged, relating to the Sun and the Moon, the rain and the mountains. And no observer of the strangely compelling stone-carved hieroglyphics can fail to be touched by the Guanches deep connection to the lands they inhabited.

Politically, there was a definite diversity of approaches taken across the islands. In Gran Canaria, an hereditary autocracy appears to have held sway – but power was passed down through the mother's side of the family. Tenerife was split into 9 small kingdoms ruled by a 'Mencey', as the kings were known, whilst other islands are though to have elected their leaders. It was this cultural and political fragmentation that may ultimately have led to their downfall, however.

The Castillan adventurers who arrived from Spain were superior in both arms, and guile. One by one, each island and kingdom was subjugated in a campaign of violence, that exploited the differences between the different groups. But to their credit, these island peoples did fend off the Spanish Conquest for a century, with little more than Neolithic weapons of stone and wood. That is something that many other indigenous groups in the Americas would find hard to emulate.

And the Guanches are still here. Forgetting all the death, disease and slavery at the hands of their Conquistadors, DNA evidence shows that 10-35% of the genes of islanders comes from the Guanches. It would seems that today's Canary Islander is deeply connected to the original habitants of these fabled isles.


Monday, November 15, 2010

Monday Ground Up: Archaeological Wonders Of Tunisia


Tunisia, officially the Tunisian Republic, is situated in northern Africa and is bordered by Algeria to the west, Libya to the southeast, and the Mediterranean Sea to the north and east. Its area is almost 165,000 km², with an estimated population of just over 10.3 million. Its name is derived from the capital Tunis located in the north-east.

Tunisia is filled with history as evident in the imprints left over a 3000 year span. Adventurers, conquerors, missionaries, traders, farmers, warriors, all made their own impact. Whether on the hills of Carthage or at the threshold of the Sahara desert. Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Turks, Spanish and French all made their way through Tunisia at one point in history, and the architecture they left behind is a reminder of state societies evolving, and at some point, falling.

Bruce Officer has compiled several articles on some archaeological sites he visited in Tunisia several years ago. For many people, Tunisia is an unknown location, however Bruce mentions Roman North Africa was a prosperous but often overlooked province.

Archaeological Sites To Visit in Tunisia

The Tophet of Carthage – Religious Sanctuary and Possible Child Sacrifice Ground



The Tophet is the sanctuary dedicated to the god Baal Hammon, the main god of the Carthaginians, and the fertility goddess Tanit. It is an open space, shaded by trees and densely packed with stone markers called stele (singular form stela). At first glance one might think these are grave markers, but they are actually markers recording an important sacrifice made to the gods, often naming the person who the stela set up.

Read: The Tophet of Carthage

The Roman Amphitheatre of El Jem


© chileno66

Indeed, so starkly alone is the building that antiquarians believed it to be an amphitheatre built in the desert, thinking it the whim of a mad emperor. But modern excavations have revealed the outlines of a fair sized city with a forum and villas of the wealthy, though these excavations have been backfilled and aren’t available for the visitor to see.

The El Jem amphitheatre is grand, even by Roman standards. It is 138 metres long and 114 metres wide, making it a little over two thirds the size of the Coliseum in Rome. It was probably built in the first few decades of the third century AD.

Read more: The Roman Amphitheatre of El Jem

Dougga – A Roman Hilltop City in Tunisia


© izzthewizz

This is Dougga, sometimes called Thugga, a Roman city not far from the North African desert frontier, but also a city rooted in its Numidian and Carthaginian past.



The Numidians were the native people of the hills and plateaus of the semi-fertile zone between the desert and the Mediterranean sea. By the time of Rome’s expansion, they had formed a kingdom, adopting written language and government from the Carthaginians – the Middle Eastern people who had settled on the coast of North West Africa and had created a trading empire. Although some of the Numidians were still nomadic, plenty lived in villages and even towns like Dougga.

Read more: Dougga – A Roman Hilltop City in Tunisia

Thuburbo Majus – Solitary Majesty of This Tunisian Roman Town


Public Domain

Thuburbo Majus, or Colonia Julia Aurelia Commoda as it was called when it was granted colonia status, was a Roman town about 60 km southwest of Carthage on the trade route that connected Carthage to the edge of the desert and the caravans that crossed it. In fact there was a Carthaginian town here before the Romans arrived and Augustus chose it as a site to settle retired army veterans in 27 BC.

Read more: Thuburbo Majus – Solitary Majesty of This Tunisian Roman Town

The Antonine Baths in Carthage, Tunisia




© Bruce Officer

Construction of the Antonine baths began under the Emperor Hadrian in AD 146 and was completed under his successor Antoninus Pius in AD 162, hence the naming of the complex. And it was indeed a complex, not a simple set of Roman baths. As well as the normal cold, warm and hot rooms there were outdoor pools and a sun terrace, as well as broad steps leading down to the sea. The scale was astonishing: the main pavilion had a floor area of about 18 000 square meters and the total complex about 35 000 square meters.

Read more: The Antonine Baths in Carthage, Tunisia

How Can I See All Of These Archaeological Sites In Tunisia?

This heritage, Tunisia's greatest wealth has been held in trust and preserved in hundreds of sites and museums from the small Punic museum in Utica to the vast collections of the prestigious National Museum of Bardo. Most Museums are closed on Mondays, whereas many on-site archeological museums and ruins are open all week. An entrance fee is usually charged and a caretaker will often act as guide. ~Tourism Tunisia

What Other Cultural Tours And Activities Can You Find In Tunisia?

  • The International Music Festival is held for long evenings in the El Jem Coliseum. The festival is held on a summer night and provides an unforgettable musical experience. Symphonic sounds collide as world renowned artists take the stage for a spectacular night under the stars.
  • Tunisia's desert near Tozeur has featured in numerous films, most notably in The English Patient and Star Wars. An increasing number of tour operators now offer desert safaris to the locations where these famous blockbuster movies were shot. For further information, contact the Tunisian National Tourist Office.~IExplore
Also check out these sites for an exclusive list of activities and travel tours.

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